Travel

Cambodia: Angkor Wat at Dawn

In Cambodia, David and I stand among teeming crowds to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat, a 12th century temple.  It’s 6:00 a.m. and already onlookers line the edges of a moat filled with blooming waterlillies.  I hear a woman say, “I thought if I came early, I’d have the place to myself” and […]

Vietnam: the healing effect of anti-war protest

I am in Vietnam where Americans are warmly welcomed.  Odd.  I’m 62 and I recall TV images of brutal jungle warfare. From 1964 to 1973 about 2 million tons of American bombs were dropped. As a teenager, I learned about napalm and Agent Orange.  Most of all, I remember the anti-war protests.  Apparently, so do […]

Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar: Where are the women?

The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, Turkey is the size of four soccer fields, a shopper’s Nirvana packed to its mosaic rafters with pashminas, pottery, exotic lanterns, evil eye keychains, and rugs, rugs, rugs. Every day about 250,000 shoppers teem through its corridors and tunnels.  While there, the lack of female salespeople surprised me. The beginnings […]

A Visit To Mother Mary’s House

Mary, Jesus’s mother, spent her last days in Turkey, and I visited her house, surrounded by maple trees, high above the ancient Roman ruins of Ephesus, five miles from the Aegean Sea, now rebuilt by the Catholic Church as a holy place. After Jesus entrusted his mother and apostle John into each other’s care, it […]

Goldilocks and the three mosques

October 11, 2015.  On Sunday we had a free day to hike the historic neighborhood of Sultanahmet, and had a chance to visit three mosques. Being in a holy place on Sunday felt right, even if Christian churches are scarce. Much like Goldilocks with the three bears, we sampled small, medium and large mosques, and […]